Hem Stitch With a Self-fringing Edge tutorial cover image

Hem Stitch With a Self-fringing Edge

A Hem Stitch with a self-fringing edge is a decorative method for finishing the fabric edge. This technique is often used for the edges of the napkins, towels, or table runners.

To create this edge with a fringe, you will have to work in two phases. First, we secure the fabric with a hem stitch. This stitching will prevent the fabric from fraying. Then, we remove the threads to create a fringe.

Often, this type of hemming is almost invisible as it is made with a thread of the same color as the fabric. I chose a contrasting pink color to make it easy to follow the steps and the needle movement.

Hem Stitch With a Self-fringing Edge napkin image
Sampler of the napkin with a fringe edge
Hem Stitch With a Self-fringing Edge details image
Details of the stitching

Applications of the Hem Stitch with a fringe

Hem stitch with a self-fringing edge is mostly used to finish linen household textiles, such as decorative or cocktail napkins, table runners, or towels. Besides that, this technique is often used by hand weavers, who finish the edges of hand-woven scarves or table runners with the hem stitch and later spin or braid the fringe.

Other stitches to finish the edges of the textiles

Scallop Stitch Edge with pearl cotton thread
Scallop Stitch
Overlock stitch embroidery with purple thread small image
Overlock Stitch
Blanket Stitch Triangles embroidery small image
Blanket Stitch Triangles

Learn how to make a Hem Stitch with a self-fringing edge

Follow the step-by-step tutorial with detailed photos below, and you will learn the Hem Stitch with a self-fringing edge technique quickly. If you are a visual learner, watch a video lesson in the tutorial or on the Practical Embroidery YouTube channel to learn this hand embroidery stitch faster.

Hem Stitch With a Self-fringing Edge small sampler image

How to make Hem Stitch with a self-fringing edge

Step-by-step hand embroidery tutorial

Prepare for stitching the hem

1. Start by preparing the fabric. Measure the length of the fringe on all the sides of the fabric and mark the distance. I used a Friction pen for marking.

Measure the length of the fringe

2. Pull the threads to create a space for the hem stitch. I pulled out three threads on each mark on all four sides of the fabric.

Pull the threads to create a space for the hem stitch
Embroider the Hem Stitch

3. Thread your needle, but do not make a knot. Secure the starting thread by lightly weaving it under the first thread in the weave. Leave the end of the thread loose – we will take care of it at the end.

Secure the starting thread

4. Start making a Hem Stitch. Pass the needle under the group of threads. The number of threads you will group with each stitch will define the density of the fringe.

Start making a Hem Stitch

5. Pass the needle under the same group of stitches once more, wrapping them tightly. Pull slightly to compact the threads together.

Hem Stitch With a Self-fringing Edge tutorial step 5 image

6. Now push the needle into the fabric a couple of threads under the edge, and bring it back to the surface inside the line of the drawn threads. Count the threads you are grouping to make the clusters of the same size.

Hem Stitch With a Self-fringing Edge tutorial step 6 image

7. Wrap the second group of pulled threads and tighten the stitch.

Hem Stitch With a Self-fringing Edge tutorial step 7 image

8. Make a tiny stitch into the fabric and move to the next cluster of drawn threads. Repeat the wrapping.

Hem Stitch With a Self-fringing Edge tutorial step 8 image

9. As you get closer to the corner, carefully count the threads and group them into the same-size clusters.

Hem Stitch With a Self-fringing Edge tutorial step 9 image

10. After that, work around the corner and continue on the next side of the fabric.

Making a corner with a hem stitch image

11. When the entire perimeter is secured with a Hem Stitch, you will work over the starting thread, securing it under the stitches.

Hem Stitch With a Self-fringing Edge tutorial step 11 image

12. Finish the last stitch with a loop and weave in the end of the thread under the previously made stitches.

Hem Stitch With a Self-fringing Edge tutorial step 12 image
Create the fringe

13. Finally, after all the sides are secured with a Hem Stitch, carefully remove the threads from the edges to form a fringe. You can trim it to make it shorter or make it long and spin or braid it after the hemming.

Removing threads to create a fringe image

Hem Stitch with a self-fringing edge Video tutorial

Tools and materials I used for this sampler

Disclaimer. To cover the cost of creating free embroidery patterns and video tutorials for this blog, I do sometimes link to products. Please assume these links are affiliate links. If you choose to buy through my links then THANK YOU – it will make it possible for me to keep doing this.

Embroidery fabric cotton linen neutral colors Etsy
Embroidery fabric
DMC Embroidery Floss 117 on Etsy
DMC Embroidery Floss
Bohin Embroidery Needles Assorted Sizes (No. 3- 9)
Bohin Embroidery Needles
Embroidery Scissors Etsy
Embroidery Scissors

What’s next?

If you’re in the mood to explore more hand embroidery stitches, check out the Stitches and Techniques page for the list of other fantastic stitches available on my blog. From basic embroidery stitches to complex and playful variations of classical techniques, a whole world of stitches is waiting for you to explore and master. So, grab your hoop and needle, and let’s stitch together!

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Need More Guidance?

The top 10 hand embroidery stitches to learn is a free online course created for beginners.

White sashiko stitches on purple fabric
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