Hem Stitch
Hem Stitch is a drawn-thread technique used to create the heirloom look on the linen napkin edges. To finish the edges of the textiles with a Hem Stitch, you will have to make two steps. First, you will draw a couple of threads from the fabric to create the space for stitching. Then, you will create a hem. Hem Stitch will secure the folded fabric and, at the same time, will decorate the seam.
Hem Stitch looks neat on both sides of the fabric; it is often used in textiles where both sides are visible. If you use the color thread, similar to the fabric, the stitch itself will be almost invisible. To make this demonstration easy to follow and clear, I used a bright pink color.
Other names of the Hem Stitch
The alternative names for this technique are Spoke Stitch, Antique Hem Stitch and Single Hem Stitch.
Applications of the Hem Stitch
As the name suggests, the main scope of the Hem Stitch is to decorate the hems of the textiles. Traditionally, this drawn thread technique is used on even-weave linen fabric. In reality, you can use this antique technique for any type of textile, as long as the weave is even and you can easily separate and pull out some threads from the fabric.
Traditionally, Hem Stitch is used to finish the edges of heirloom table linens – napkins, table runners, tablecloths, and other home textiles like towels.
Besides that, you can use the Hem Stitch to finish straight edges of the garments – hems of the linen trousers, blouses and shirts, the edges of the dresses and skirts.
More stitches for securing the hems and edges
Learn how to embroider Hem Stitch
Follow the step-by-step tutorial with detailed photos below, and you will learn the Hem Stitch quickly. If you are a visual learner, watch a video lesson in the tutorial or on the Practical Embroidery YouTube channel to learn this hand embroidery stitch faster.
How to embroider Hem Stitch
Step-by-step hand embroidery tutorial
1. Measure the size of the fold. I decided on the 2 cm fold and marked the fabric at 2, 4, and 6 cm.
2. Draw the threads on the marks. Pull away 1 thread at first two marks and 3-4 threads on the last mark. The first two drawn threads will help you fold the hem, and the last one is for the actual stitching.
3. Fold the hem and press. If done well, you will not need to baste or pin the hem.
4. Thread the needle, make the knot, and hide the knot inside the fold. We will be stitching from right to left.
5. Pass the needle under the cluster of the drawn threads. Decide on the density of your stitching and always use the same thread count to maintain the size.
6. Pass the needle under the same group of threads again to make a second wrap.
7. Then pull the thread to gather these threads into a nice cluster, leaving a gap in the row of pulled threads.
8. Now, pass the needle through the fabric fold. This step will attach the edge of the fold to the seam and secure the hem.
9. Move to the next group of pulled threads and pass the needle under. Wrap the second group of threads twice.
10. Pass the needle inside the folded edge and move to the next stitch. Repeat this sequence along the entire edge.
11. After the last stitch is done, secure the final stitch and hide the end inside the fold. If done well, the Hem Stitch will look neat and tidy on both sides of the hem.
Video tutorial
Tools and materials I used for this sampler
Disclaimer. To cover the cost of creating free embroidery patterns and video tutorials for this blog, I do sometimes link to products. Please assume these links are affiliate links. If you choose to buy through my links then THANK YOU – it will make it possible for me to keep doing this.
What’s next?
If you’re in the mood to explore more hand embroidery stitches, check out the Stitches and Techniques page for the list of other fantastic stitches available on my blog. From timeless classics to modern twists, a whole world of stitches is waiting for you to explore and master. Decorative stitches, techniques for filling and outlines, borders or mending – all in one place!
Don’t miss a thing!
Follow me on YouTube, Instagram, Facebook, Flipboard, Telegram, Reddit or Pinterest. On the other hand, you can subscribe to the Practical Embroidery newsletter and get embroidery tips straight to your inbox every week!
Need More Guidance?
The top 10 hand embroidery stitches to learn is a free online course created for beginners.
